Shoe shopping

Links and info about tango shoe shops! Let me know if your favorite shoe shop is missing, or if you find that the contact information has changed!

* My favorite brand: Comme Il Faut at Arenales 1239, door 3, apt. M.  Open Monday-Friday 11-19, Saturday 11-15. Shoes only for women. Heels 7,5cm and 8,5cm are recommendable; nowadays they have some models also with a lower heel. Prices around 750-790 pesos.

* NeoTango at Sarmiento 1938. Shoes for men and women; men's shoes also in small sizes. Also sneakers. Cool designs for both sexes, comfortable heel, clear shop: low heels on the right hand side and high heels on the left. Low meaning 7 cm and high 8-9 cm. Price around 750 pesos.

* The new hot shoe brand for women: Souple at Parana 348, 2 A. Open Monday-Friday 13-19, and could be wise to call first to make sure lady Souple is there (11-4371-6813 or 15-5327-3424). The sole is very soft, flexible (hence the name) and well cushioned, the heel is very distinctive, well placed, and you see many professionals wearing this shoe. The fit seems to be for a normal foot. They have several models, and the heel height is 8,5 or 9,5 cm. In one shoe they have a 7cm heel, but the style is more ballroom or salsa and not so much a tango shoe. We are praying for a 7,5cm heel and a wider fit... Prices around 700-800 pesos.

* DNI tango store at the DNI tango school on Bulnes 1011; also a web shop. Open Monday-Saturday 13-20. Great shoes for women: one comfortable heel height, 7,5cm. Three models. Two widths. I love the rubber sole; great for slippery floors and performances! Also several types of sneakers with different heels. Price 630 pesos for the heels, a bit less for the sneakers.
Men's shoes: 3 different models + sneakers. Fun designs and colors. Price 630 pesos.

* 4 Corazones have great sneakers for men and women. Av. Callao 257, 3rd floor.

* Alanis at Diagonal Norte 936. Women's tango shoes with different heel heights, bright colors, flexible sole, padding. Monday-Friday 10-19, Saturday 11-13. Some people swear by these shoes; did not convince me.

* GretaFlora, Acuña de Figueroa 1612, in Palermo Soho, Monday-Friday 11-19 and Saturday 14-19. 

* A Swedish girl who makes the shoes herself!!! Three models of high heels and the famous flat dance shoes from Katrinski; check also the Facebook page. Women's shoes.

* 2x4 al pie: men's shoes with interchangeable sole. Very soft construction, almost a sneaker, soft heel. Scalabrini Ortiz 1753, Dpt 3. Monday-Friday 14-19, Saturday 15-19. They used to have a women's shoe also, but not any more. 

* Fabio shoes: sneakers for men and women, and maybe also high heel shoes again. Showroom on Riobamba 10, piso 10 A. Monday-Friday 11-19, Saturday 11-16. 

* Tango Leike on Sarmiento 1947. Women's shoes, also with a lower heel. 

* VB tango shoes in San Telmo, Independencia 389. Shoes for women and men. 

* Traditional tango shoes on Suipacha street: Flabella on Suipacha 263 and Darcos on Suipacha 259. Check also Suipacha 256 on the other side of the street; that's where I bought my first (5 pairs of) tango shoes!!!. Shoes for men and women. And they still have the amazing full glitter shoes!!! I think I need one pair...

* Raquel at Bolivar 554 in San Telmo. Shoes for men and women. One model of a lace up practice shoe with 5cm heel. Also custom made shoes for a higher price.

* A new shoe shop on Estados Unidos in San Telmo, Alma. They have several models with different heels, a nice shop, and they also can build an arch support or an olive in the shoe if you feel you need that. The fit seems to be for a normal foot (with long toes). Only women's shoes.

* And the best shoes for men come from Señora Leo. Shoes made to measure, you choose the model and leather and the heel, and get a shoe that fits like a glove and last for years. Pasi has already written about this. The small shop Artesania AR-SIL at Avenida Juan de Garay 908, on the border of San Telmo and Constitution. I usually take the subte to San Juan and then walk along Tacuari street. Open Tuesday-Friday 12-18, Saturday 11-16. Very reliable and friendly people, a family business, making shoes for 27 years! Price around 600-650 pesos, depending on the materials used.

They make shoes also for women, and I recommend it if you need a special fit, like much wider shoes or feet very different sizes or shapes, or want a special design. They also make normal street shoes, sandals and lace up shoes, so if you have the dream shoe in your mind, with pink and glitter and leopard, go for it! If you find easily ready-made shoes from the regular shops, then this process of shoes made to measure might not be worth the trouble. I have had some shoes made, and I use them as summer sandals, because for tango they are not the best for me. I'm getting one new pair tomorrow, let's see how they fit!

Even though the shoes are made to measure, there might be problems about the fit, especially with the first pairs. So don't hesitate to tell them the problem and they will fix it. Sometimes it is best to use the shoes for a couple of days and then you know if they fit or not, and then you still can take them back to be fixed.

* Shoes made to measure, for men and women, also from Fattomano, Guatemala 4464, Palermo Botánico, just off Scalabrini Ortiz, tel. (5411) 4832-3156 or 4832-9633
and PH Tango,  Grito de Asencio 3602, Pompeya, tel. 4911-0925.

* Another list of shoe shops in BA!

Surviving in BA

This is still a work in progress: I will collect important links for everyday life in BA to have notes for myself and to make your stay in BA better! If you have any questions or good ideas, please let me know!

TRANSPORT

* I love the taxis in BA! There are millions of those black and yellow cars circling around the city, just waiting for you to wave for one! Make sure that you wave for a RADIO TAXI, they are the safest. How to recognize one? On the taxi it is written somewhere Radio Taxi, and there are usually two antennas, one long and thin and one short and thick. Those cars are connected to the taxi center or something, and they can ask for directions and help if needed. Inside they usually have a sign of the driver's name and the prices. Nowadays the taxis are not so cheap anymore; the base price is nowadays around 10 pesos, and usually a trip in the city costs around 30 pesos. Always check that the meter is running, and in the end of the trip you can ask for a receipt, un recibo or ticket. Usually you don't have to tip the taxi driver, only maybe round up the sum to the next full peso like 26,40 -> 27. If you want to go very far, like outside the city, the taxi driver may not want to take you there, or you have to pay also for the return trip to town, even though you are not coming back in that taxi.

* Get yourself a SUBE-card!!! Works for the bus = collectivo, the metro = subte and the train = tren. You can get it on kiosks marked with a lilac and green SUBE sign, it costs 15 pesos, you have to fill a form and fill in your ID-number, and sometimes they ask for your passport or ID-card. Then you need to charge it with money, either in the kiosk or the office at the subte. Then you just show it to the reader in the metro and the bus. In the bus you have to tell the driver where you want to go, because the price can be different: sometimes it is 1,10 pesos and sometimes it can be even 1,25 pesos! One ride at the subte costs 2,5 pesos. From the boletería at the subte station you can also buy tickets with 1-10 trips.

* How to know how to get somewhere on public transport? Use the guides on the internet! My favorite is the trip advisor at Comoviajo: write your address and where you want to go, choose how many blocks you can walk, and you get several options, also with combinations of the subte and colectivo. The bus lines you can check at Omnilineas: mark on the map where you are and where you want to go, and you'll see the bus lines that work the best. There is also the interactive map of Buenos Aires.

The bus stops are usually very well hidden, there can be a postcard sized sign on a lamp post or even attached to a tree. The colectivo stops usually before and after a big avenue, and very often even in every block. Sometimes there are several buses with the same number, and they all go to different places, and somehow you have to know which one is the right one for you; this one I haven't figured out yet how to solve!

* If you are lucky enough to have a bike in Buenos Aires, check the new bike routes here!
The city's slogan for promoting biking is "Mejor en bici", and I think it sounds much better in Finnish: "Paremmin pyörällä"!

PHONE

* Take an old phone with you, or buy a cheap one from here, buy a phone card from a kiosk, and charge it, and voilá! you are ready to make those table reservations to the milonga! Recharging the credit is easiest in the kiosk with "carga virtual": you give them your phone number and money and they recharge it on the internet. You should then get an SMS announcing your new saldo. Often there are promotions that on a certain day for 40 pesos you get 80 pesos; at least my Movistar sends me these announcements about twice a week.

* Not so wise to walk around with your iPhone, so leave it at your BA home.

EATING

* Check the restaurants near you on GuiaOleo!
My favorite vegetarian restaurant is Artemisia in Palermo, Gorriti 5996.
My favorite place for beef = lomo is DesNivel in San Telmo, Defensa 855.

* In the supermarket, read carefully the packets. In very surprising places you find sugar, and if it says "sugar free" it probably means it has artificial sweetener. In most yogurts there is both sugar and artificial sweeteners, and it is very hard to find normal coffee without sugar!!! So read carefully if you want to take care of your diet. Or just enjoy the green, blue and pink breakfast cereals.
The fruits and vegetables are usually better at the Fruteria and Verduleria, the green grocer on your street.
There are some shops that sell organic products, especially in the Palermo neighborhood. Will put links later.
In the Dieteticas you find nuts and grains and sometimes also non-white bread.


LEARNING SPANISH

* A good web dictionary and translator here! Must be several good ones, let me know your favorite one!

* If you really want to learn Spanish, this is a good school! I was planning to go, but then did not have time, but many friends go and really recommend it, and I can hear them improving! There are several levels, from completely beginners to very advanced, there are more and less intensive courses, and you can start any Monday!


SAFETY

* This is a big city, so take care of your belongings as you would in any other big city. Have a handbag with a zipper, and hold it tight. Hold your backpack in the front, not on your back. Be aware in the crowds, like the crowded subway or a busy street, parks, markets, and La Boca area. In restaurants also always have your bag at hand, don't put it behind your back or on another chair. And don't go out with all your credit cards and all your money at once. Just don't.

* The classical BA way to get robbed is that somebody throws some dirt on you, or bumps into you with his ice cream, or smears your jacket with McDonalds ketchup or bird poo, and then wants to clean you, and then really cleans you off, also of your money. So if something like that happens to you, please leave and go to a safe place to clean yourself. Oh, and I heard that the new thing is that somebody pukes on you at the subte and then tries to rob you... eew...

* The crowded subte is of course the place to loose your money and phone, so take care of your belongings. Hold your bag if somebody bumps into you. A bag with a zipper is a must, hold it all the time, and have your backpack on your stomach and not on your back.

* Don't change money on Florida street.
There is also fake money around, usually 50 or 100 peso bills, so take it as an authentic BA experience when you get your first fake fifty!

* Don't walk from San Telmo to La Boca, take a bus or taxi. In La Boca, take care of your belongings.

MORE TIPS

* Take a flashlight with you, or buy one from here, and keep it with you. There are power cuts often, so you never know when you have to help a lady friend to open her shoe clasp in the light of your flashlight.

* Tips for the toilet or el baño.
1) It is common at least in the old houses NOT to throw the toilet paper in the toilet, but put it in the waste paper basket, because the plumbing is ancient and we don't want the toilet to clog.
2) In the traditional milongas, there used to be a lady in the ladies' baño, and she would hand out toilet paper, and sell mints and stockings and earrings and knitted shawls and even dresses, basically anything that a woman could suddenly need in the middle of a dance evening. On this trip, I met this phenomena only few times: in the milonga in Club Sunderland, one night in La Viruta, and in the restaurant Todomundo on Plaza Dorrego. So be ready to hand over some pesos in exchange of toilet paper.

* Join the group "Surviving in BA" on Facebook!!!

Showtime!!!

Today we had a very exciting day: we had the honor to perform at the practica of DNI!!! We danced two songs, and we chose ones that we have performed already a few times before: a tango by Di Sarli "Junto a tu corazon" and a vals by Biagi "El ultimo adios". I have to say I was a little bit nervous, but the performance went well and we had so many friends there to cheer for us!!! The moment was amazing when we stepped to the floor and the friendly noise surrounded us!!!!!

Pasi was handsome as ever, and I had on one of my new dresses. 

Maria, Ale y Kristin

here is the tango and...

...here is the vals

SHOES!!!

Okay, you probably thought that this is Maria who is writing. Wrong. This is Pasi and his adventures in the wonderful world of SHOES! I have to admit I am somewhat more conservative and not quite as enthusiastic about it, but definitely I have a crush... And yes, I DO like Maria's shoes. And so do you. Still I am not sure if she dares to share this passion in it's true, enormous scale, but let's hope she shares some of it. Even I have not seen all the shoes she has bought...

Anyway, let's start from the modern ones.

The first pair is actually not tango shoes, but perfect november shoes from Satori bought from Palermo outlet area (here). Very comfortable and slippery, perfect shoes for instant surprise dancing, too. Tonite I had them seriously tested in El Motivo dance floor. They got crazy...

The next pair you probably recognise if you danced tango at all. They are the famous 2x4 al pie, with interchangable soles. The most expensive tango shoes. Well, actually they are not shoes but sneakers or sneaker-shoes, something between. They are soft and very comfortable with soft and well designed heel and good general balance. Unfortunately, the don't last in my use at all. The first pair was destroyed in four months, and this pair is already showing signs of tiredness after a couple of weeks. Maybe it's just me, some say their durability is good and they use them for years. For my use the weak point is the heels and leather over the heels. Soft heels just don't last in my use...
2x4 have their shop close to Salon Canning in Scalabrini Ortiz 1753, 3rd, and they are open Mon-Fri 2p.m.-7p.m. and Sat 3p.m.-7p.m.

Here is a very nice pair from 4corazones. They have a nice shop in Callao 257, 3.A with cool pants and shirts for the guys, too! These are also sneaker-shoes with very thick and well made leather. It is made by sr Fabio himself from the original Fabio shoes. The heel is a wide and gives better support than those of 2x4, but for my taste they are just a little bit too back. Also the ball of the foot gets better support than in 2x4 because of wider design. The cromo is great for many slippery floors here in Bsas. But. They have soft heels and they are already a little bit injured. 

One great advantage: they are by far the cheapest shoes, and definitely worth getting!

And now to conservative, real shoes.

This brown suede-shoe pair is from Susana Artesanal, from Abasto barrio (Jean Jaures 465). Beautiful, classic design with wide design with just a little pointed toes, hard and well positioned heel, and good support in the ball of the foot. Torsion resistent, protects the foot and rather slippery leather sole makes dancing very balanced and easy. This pair might turn out to be just a little bit too big for me after I have used them a couple of times, so if you are interested they might end up in your shoe collection... Very good shoes with affordable price.
They hold open Mon-Fri 10a.m.-8p.m. and Sat 10a.m.-6p.m.

Here is the first pair from AR-SIL, or Snra Leo. They have been in business for 30 years and produced shoes already in the '90's tango shows. It is sort of obvious from the ladies' shoes since they tend to be little old fashioned, but the men's shoes are just incredible. Custom made shoes of highest quality. You can choose from a couple of hundred different materials and maybe 20 different models. Heels are wooden and you can choose from three different. They last forever. I made four pairs six years ago and I still use them. I even have one pair that it 11 years old and use them constantly. None of them are broken or destroyed in any ways. Perfect fit, although you might have to send them back a couple of times for fixing, but it is worth it. Also, if the fit is really tight, you might have to use them for 10-20 hours before they have softened and melted in your foot. Now my old shoes are like gloves, and I can use them for a whole weekend without problems. 

A few years ago they opened a little shop in San Telmo, av. Juan de Garay 908, esq Tacuari. They don't have net pages.

This pair of brown wings and white middle part has a middle high heel with excellent fit and balance. Leather is really thick and stiff now that they are new. Laces have distance so that when the shoe stretches just a little bit there is still space to find a good fit. The sole is very stable and torsion resistent. They support your foot everywhere and really help you dance better. 

Price is very reasonable especially when you take account their durability.

The second pair from AR-SIL is a little wilder: a shade thinner leather with reddish python in the whole shoe except the lace and ankle area is very red. The heel is the same as before. As the leather is little thinner, the fit is already better and they have a little bit softer feeling. 

And last but not least: leopard heel, ankle and lace area and a horribly green toes! When wearing the pants, you can hardly see the leopard, the same effect as in the red-python shoes. It only surprises you sometimes. When the lady have something green on, the shocking effect of the green toes is considerably milder and instead it is just freakin' cool. And you know what: almost every woman have SOMETHING green quite often...

Things are back to normal

For the moment the city is calm and quiet - as much as it can ever be. The lights are back, the internet is working, and the milongas and classes run normally. And we are also running as normal. Whew. And I just realized that I am so perfectly happy now that every day we can do what we want to do: we can go shopping or to classes or visit the city and choose where to go eat and what flavor of ice cream I want today and which of the many milongas we choose to go to or if we stay at home. Or do nothing. Hmm, this starts to sound familiar, I've heard about this kind of thing before - is it called a HO-LI-DAY??? I so needed this.

* Yesterday we got Pasi's third pair of shoes from Sra Leo, and they fit perfectly now! I took my pair back to be fixed. Pictures later.

* A class of Tango salon by Marta y Manolo, in the style of the 50s! We learned the salidas of the 30s, 40s and 50s, some fun steps, and found out that in the 40 there really was a test you had to take as a leader to be able to enter the dance floor, and there really was a guy to guard the pista and if you behaved in an non-orderly way, you got a warning, and if you did it again, you were thrown out!

* Dinner with friends at the famous restaurante autoservicio Bellagamba Bodegon ; thank you Kiamal and Susanne for a fun night!!!

El apagón - Lights out

Well, I have no problem making Facebook-updates nowadays. Always when I can make them, I can write that the internet and electricity (and this time also water) is back. We have been without electricity for almost a week now, and this morning we woke up to the sound of our fan buzzing and our fridge coughing! What lovely sounds!!! So now we are off to shower, and then Feria in San Telmo!!!

The apple - kolme aasia

Nature happens

Hi everybody, we are still alive!!! There was a huge storm over a week ago, there was rain and thunder outside and rain also inside, and the electricity was cut for a day, an then the internet was gone for over a week. Now we got it back!!!!! But today the city is again in chaos, I don't know why, but the electricity is cut in large areas. It seems the hospitals are also without power! Many milongas are also closed tonight because of no electricity. A tango class was cancelled where we were supposed to go. The subway is not running... Check what's happening in the city and practise your Spanish with this article of La Nacion!

Tonight's program will continue like this: sitting on the computer, eating ice cream and coping with the heat. For change, we do have internet and electricity. And water. No air conditioning though, and it is 35 degrees Celsius outside... But we have ice cream!!! Favorite combination so far: limon, mousse de limon and dulce de leche. Mmmm....

What have been doing during the radio silence? We have been going to classes and milongas every day, we have a great circle of friend with whom we hang out, and life is good. Shoe shopping as always... not telling how many pairs! I also found many beautiful dresses for milongas and performances, you will certainly see them!!!
Visiting the yarn stores on Scalabrini and fabric stores on Lavalle; so far I have been good, I only bought one piece of fabric, but let's see how much I can fit in my suitcase...

The story continues - keep following!!!